Separate Reality 7a trad Yosemite USA Sinisa Skalec

"Naš posvojeni član iz Zagreba, Siniša Škalec prije tjedan dana popeo je slobodno legendarni smjer Separate Reality (5.11d ili 7a) u Yosemitima, i time postao prvi (koliko mi znamo) Hrvat koji je slobodno ponovio ovaj smjer.

Tko ne zna, radi se o smjeru kojeg je davne 1978. godine prvi popeo Ron Kauk, i s tim je smjerom označen početak nove ere penjanja pukotina s naglaskom na slobodno penjanje (nakon njegovog uspona je sve više penjača nastojalo slobodno ispenjati smjerove u Yosemitima umjesto tehničkog penjanja koje je bilo de facto standard prije toga).

Radi se o kratkom smjeru, 6 metara stropa koji ima jednu pukotinu po sredini, koja se penje na trad, dakle bez spitova, s postavljanjem vlastitog osiguranja. Iako se ocjena čini mala, bilo tko tko je probao ispenjati pukotinu u granitu zna da je puno lakše ispenjati 8a kod nas nego ovakav 7a.

Dodatno, Škalec je smjer popeo u pravom trad stilu, gdje je prilikom uspona postavio sve frendove (trad puristi ne priznaju uspon sa frendovima koji su već postavljeni u stijeni).

Siniša Škalec i Ivan Vitez bili su sudionici International Climbers meetingu organizaciji American Alpine Cluba proteklog tjedna, te ostaju još dva tjedna u Yosemitima u legendarnom Camp 4. Penju super stvari (obojica slobodno do 5.11), ali ćete više o svemu tome čitati kad se vrate!

Putovanje Iveka i Škaleca pomogli su sponzorstvima:
Komisija za alpinizam – Hrvatski Planinarski Savez
NP Paklenica
Iglu sport
Bim Sport
Galix d.o.o.
Penjačka dvorana Fothia

Na International Climbers meetingu bili su i naš Perica Levatić sa partnerom Viktorom – njih dvojica su uspjeli slobodno ispenjati jedan jedini 5c u 7 dana."


"Our adoptive member from Zagreb Siniša Škalec before one week ago he made ascent on legendary route called Separate Reality (5.11d ili 7a) in NP Yosemite (USA) and whit this venture became the first Croat who is freely repeated this route.

Who didn't know, first ascent on this route made 1978 and name of the climber who made this ascent is Ron Kauk and whit this venture start new era of climbing cracks whit focus on free climbing (after his ascent more and more climber try to climb route on Yosemite focused on free climbing style). Before that climbers made your ascent on tehnical way who is been de facto standard for climbing.

This route is about 6m long whit the roof and on the middle of the roof is crack which climber must climb on trade way. Whan you climb this route you put friends (climbing gear) on the crack and on this way you progress through the route. Although the grade is small, anyone who tried to squeeze the cracks in the granite knows that it is much easier to climb 8a at us than on this 7a.

Škalec made ascent on the right trad way, he put your gear in crack on the way up (real trad climber doesn't admit ascent if gear already in rock).

Siniša Škalec and Ivan Vitez last week was participants International Climbers meeting in organization of American Alpine Cluba and they stay at least two more week in Yosemite legendary Camp 4. They climb cool stuff (both climb routes up to 5.11).

Sponsors of this trip are:
Mountaineering committee – Croatian mountain union
NP Paklenica
Iglu sport
Bim Sport
Galix d.o.o.
Climbing Gym Fothia

Perica Levatić and his climbing partner Viktor also been on International Climbers meeting and they made only one ascent on 5c in 7 days."

post take over from Pk-Vertikal