Supercrackinette

Svi tabloidi u zadnjih par dana pišu o flash usponu Adam Ondre na smjer Supercrackinette (9a+) na penjalištu Saint Leger du Ventoux (sektor Praniania) Francuska.

Povijest smjer ide otprilike ovako, smjer je prvi zabušio Laurent Triay i u originalu se zvao Crackinette koji je bio ocjenjen sa 8b+, a kasnije (2016 godine) direktni ulaz zabušio je Quentin Chastagnier nazvavši ga Supercrackinette i osjetno mu dignuo ocjenu. Smjer nema neki definirani detalj nego je cijeli konstantan i sastoji se od nekih 25-30 gibova u prevjesu i iznimno intenzivnih za prste. Najteži dio je kod spoja u staru verziju smjera pa sve do samog kraja (topa).

Ovaj novo nabušeni smjer prvi je prošle godine (2016) popeo Alex Megosu kojem je uložio tri dana napora prije nego ga je popeo. Adam za sada ima dva 9a smjera popeta na flash (“Chromosome Y” na Charmey i “Southern smoke direct” na Red River Gorge). Ovo definitivno nije prvi njegov pokušaj da popne neki 9a+ na flash, u prošlosti je probao flashat Biographie” na Céüse i “Seleccio anal” na Santa Linya, ali mu je izgleda ovaj prvi koji mu je pasao.

Nakon što je Adamu pošlo za rukom da napravi svoj prvi 9a+ flash prvo što je rekao bilo je: "popeti Supercrackinette je definitivno velika prepreka. 9a+ je za mene bio cilj dugi niz godina, ali je problem nači dobar smjer. A kada ga nađete onda imate problem da nađete nekoga tko če vam dati betu koja vam odgovara. A nakon toga pritisak je veći nego dok penjete finale svjetskog prvenstva.

Kada sam jednom bio ovdje vidio sam ovaj projekt koji je tada bio ocjenjen sa 9a?. Izgledao mi je savršeno. Nekoliko mjeseci kasnije napokon je smjer dobio prvi uspon koji je napravio Alex Megos i ocjenio ga sa 9a+. Odmah sam znao da je to moj sljedeći cilj. "


Every taboids in last few days write about Adam Ondra flash on Supercrackinette (9a+) on Praniania sector at Saint Leger du Ventoux (France).

History about that route is going something like this, route first bolted Laurent Triay and in original called him Crackinette and his grade was 8b+ after that 2016. Quentin Chastagnier bolted direct start and give him new name Supercrackinette and new grade 9a+. Route has no well defined crux but is all constant and have 25-30 moves resistance and finger intensive on a big overhang. The hardest sequence is just before linking into “Crackinette” and you need to fight until the end.

This new bolted route first ascent on this masterpiece made Alex Megos and took him three day efforts last year. Adam for now have two 9a routes climbed on flash this is (“Chromosome Y” in Charmey and “Southern smoke direct” in the Red River Gorge). This is definitly not his first attempt at flashing routes this hard, in the past he try “Biographie” in Céüse and “Seleccio anal” in Santa Linya, but obviously this route suits his climbing style.

After what Adam clip the chain od this masterpiece first what he tall is: "climb Supercrackinette is definitely big mental breakthrough for me. 9a+ is been a long time goal but problem is to find a good route. And whan you find it, it is a problem to find someone who tall you a perfect beta. And after that presure i much bigger than competing in the finale of world championship.

Once whan i be here i see this project who in that moment have a grade 9a?. It looked so perfect. A few month later Alex Megos finaly made first asent and give it 9a+. I momentarily know this is my next goal."

post writen by Marko Žabčić