Ned Feehally setting up for the dyno on Ill Behaviour

Ned Feehally je napravio prvi uspona na direktnu verziju problema Renegade Master 7C+ (Froggatt Edge), kojeg je nazvao Ill Behaviour.

Ned je probao ovaj projekt prije nekoliko godina, ali je nažalost njegov napredak bio polagan, jer su ga u tome spriječili vremenski uvjeti. Za UKC je rekao: Problem je nevjerojatan. Ima jedan poprilično težak skok u čemu ja nisam dobar, tako da nisam baš siguran dali je to baš najbolja varijanta, ali je lijepo uspjeti ga stisnuti. Teško je reći dali je toliko zeznut ili je stvar predanosti, a najvjerojatnije je kombinacija jednog i drugog... Poprilično je težak gib, ali je također teško napraviti ga kad ste toliko visoko.

Dinamičan gib se nalazi na samom kraju pa kad ga je Ned probavao, probavao ga je na top rope prije nego ga je počeo penjati. Trebalo mu je otprilike 15 ulaza. Kada je došlo pitanje ocjene samo je rekao da se ne zamara sa time, jer da ima i bitnih stvari od toga.

Shauna Coxsey on Renegate Master

Nakon što je Ned popeo problem, Shauna Coxsay je iz trećeg pokušaja napravila ponavljanje Renegate Matera 7C+.

Jim Pope je također imao jako prooduktivan dan u kojem je popeo Renegate Master i Screeming Dream 8A. Nakon toga postavio je jedan bolder problem koji ide kroz prevjes i nakraju se spaja u Renegate Master. Problem je nazvao Popal Cancave, a ocjene je između 7C i 8A.

Vidjet ćemo što će ponavljači reći.


Ned Feehally made first ascent on direct version bolder problem Renegade Master 7C+ (Froggatt Edge), naming it Ill Behaviour.

When Ned try this project before couple of years ago his progress was very slowly because of poor weather condition stop him. For UKC he say: Problem is amazing. Problem has one hard jump and I'm not so good at jumping so I didn't sure it is a best version but it's good to know that you can squeeze something like that. It is hard to say is it tricky or committing, probably a combination. It's pretty hard move but it's also hard to make it when you are so high.

On the top of problem is dyno move and when Ned tried this section he is tried on top rope before he decided to climb whole problem. Ned was spend 15 attempts before he make it FA. When came time for grade a problem he only say I do not bothering whit this because there are more important things than that.

After Ned sent problem Shauna Coxsay in only three trys make ascent on Renegate Master 7C+.

Jim Pope on his new line Papal Concave

Jim Pope it's also has very productive day he sent Renegate Master & Screeming Dream 8A. After that, he made FA on the boulder that goes through the roof and than conect to Renegate Master. He named it Popal Cancave and for grade he belive it's someting around 7C - 8A.

But we will see what repeaters will say.

Post written by Marko Žabčić